The chronicles of a young woman who has gone where no other Cosgrove has gone before, Communist China.

Sunday, July 02, 2006

Last day in Chengde

Here's a picture of my last foreign gathering in Chengde. After I came back from Tibet I was the only one left... so...

Today I had my kick off boozy lunch with Pres Gao and co. were I realized that the effort to impression ratio of my curriculum is totally in my favor. Apparently I'm one of the best teachers they've ever had, all the students love me and they would love for me to come back next year. har har. Who knew that acting like a total idiot in front of these kids to get them to talk = sought after skill. Anyway that made me feel good.
Then I went to dinner with my nursing friend May. She's been a real help and source of information and Chinese culture while I've been here, which is why I was super pumped to eat dinner at her mother in laws house. Maybe it's more because her mother in law is an awesome cook. Who knew I'd actually ever want Chinese food, let alone request some for my last meal. My head has now grown to an even more gigantic level because as we were saying our goodbyes May really layed it on thick. Things like, "you have made my life so colorful" and, "you are such a beautiful girl with such big eyes and long eye lashes, you must be one of the most beautiful girls in your country." WHY AM I LEAVING? How can anyone compete with that? Any guy I ever date will now pale in comparison to a cute little 32 year old Chinese nurse. Sorry Brandon, but you're going to have to start thinking of some wildly outlandish compliments and say them to me as if you really believe them.

While I'm really looking forward to coming home to friends and family and food I can't help but wonder if I'm going to miss being wonderfully fabulous just because I'm not Chinese. I mean there are a lot of people in the States who aren't Chinese. I'll just have to cherish the times when people commented on my "beautiful high nose" when I'm back home and my nose if just plane ol' big.

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

Yunnan; land of yaks and bike riding peacocks


Sorry for the immense delay in my updates. It's not for lack of time I'll tell you that. It's because China is slowly sucking the life out of me. I've found the numbing my brain with endless seasons of the OC, Six Feet Under and Desperate Housewives is a much more pleasant way of spending my time compared to being spat at by all of Chengde. Fear not, I'll be home and well fed by the first week in July. Cross your fingers.
Anyway I've decided to skip the winter holiday for now and write about my May holiday, also known as May Day/Labor Day/Spring Break. My traveling party consisted of Brandon, my ever faithful and pigmently challenged companion, Matt, dancer of tables and wearer of helmets, Julie, contracter of malaria and other unpleasant hives and David, able to devour plates of fried meal worms and locust in a single lunch hour. Our destination - Yunnan Province in Southwest China.

The journey started on April 28th when I took a private car to Beijing with gal pal and fellow English teacher, Tricia Cuna, two random Chinese businessmen and our driver Mr. Lu who had a penchant for Chinese pop ballads and German techno music. No problems so far. I just kept my eyes closed and prayed for the two and a half hours it took us to drive to the Beijing airport - a drive that normally takes about 5 hours. Tragedy struck, however, when David discovered that his ticket had been booked to depart on May 28th and return on May 8th (Communism has afforded the awesome ability of traveling through time. Many believe it has something to do with the "every man for himself" mentality used when traveling, apparent in the general pushing, shoving and rib crushing that occurs upon entering and exiting public transportation... forward thinking, backward action... it's all too complicated for me, I'm not a scientist). Tragedy averted easily though, with a 300 yuan fee, and we boarded our flight. Kunming, the capitol of Yunnan, was a breath of fresh air, literally because the air is not as polluted as Beijing. Though I have the treat of clean air up in Chengde, the kids from Shijiazhuang breath in air from the third most polluted city in China every day. Our stay wasn't long and we basked in the glory of our good fortune at being able to get on the next train to Dali that night over some warm beers and dehydrated noodle bowls.

April 29th we woke up in Dali, an old but developing city far West of Kunming. After finding a suitable guesthouse in charming "old town" we decided that the woman that had been following us around for the last 15 minutes actually did have a reasonably interesting business and followed her to the main road to board our valiant steads. These horses were by far the smallest specimens I had ever seen. My horse's head came up to my shoulders, maybe, and it's back was about as tall as my ribs. Somehow Brandon got the smallest horse, Matt's saddle was a little cock-eyed and Dave's horse got into a fight with some other horses we were passing (biting, rearing and jumping were involved). But we were off! To climb Zhonghe Shan (Zhonghe Mountain)! Our guides were Stella and weird man with a stick who led us through the narrow, rocky and sometimes fairly steep trail... on foot. Matt led the way on Mao Zedong, or Maosy for short, I came next on Black Betty, though I soon realized that all of our horses were male shortly after bestowing this name, Julie was next on Harmen or Hubert or something of that nature, Brandon on Little Mo, and David brought up the rear on Buster. There was a temple on the top of the mountain and a foot path that you could take to see some of the nature preserve. The real kicker came after we had descended the path and were returning to base camp on the main road. I don't know if our horses were hungry or our horse whisperers wanted to get back for the next load but we started cruising at a good solid trot through town which, if you didn't know, is the most jarring way to ride a horse. I thought my head was going to fall off and my bum was sufficiently bruised for the next 2 days.

Thursday, March 09, 2006

How Delicious plus Mom

Chengde and Beijing (January 17 - 24)

God I don't feel like writing this right now.... here's a picture. We went to the Great Wall one day.

Sunday, March 05, 2006

Goodbye to my girls


I have heard many a complaint about the lack of updates on my blog. I must say that I've been far to busy traveling to a paradise beyond my wildest dreams and then having my spirit crushed into a thousand tiny pieces. Not so pushy now are you? Well we'll start with the first of many legs of my journey. why is it legs and not arms...

Shanghai and Hangzhou (January 9 - 15)


The day after my birthday Andrea, Aubrey, Cathy Lee and I left for Shanghai. It was a lovely goodbye trip, as the girls were to return to the mother land after our week of travels. We arrived in the city of soap operas (many of China's daytime dramas take place in Shanghai) overwhelmed by high rises and air pollution, and after coming from Beijing that's saying a lot about the exhaust of the city's vehicles. Seeing as how this happened over a month ago it's a bit of a blur for me but the minor details are as follows:
- nothing seems to go quite right in Shanghai
- the country's tallest building, the Jin Mao Tower is pretty cool, but you can't see more than 2 miles out from the top because of all the pollution
- the Bund Sight Seeing Tunnel is freakier than any acid trip I have every heard of
- the Shanghai Sex Museum is quite possibly the hardest thing to ever find (other than a set of keys in your apartment of course)
- the Peace Hotel Old Jazz Bar literally has some of the crustiest old men I have ever seen still able to breath without the aid of a machine, and man does the trumpet player love shakin those maracas
- though we were told that because Shanghai is farther South we'd be able to find spring rolls we were heart broken to find not a single one, thus dashing Cathy Lee's hopes of ever eating a true Chinese spring roll

After a few days in China's fastest growing metropolis we hopped a train to Hangzhou. It is said that "there is heaven above, Hangzhou below" and that the most beautiful women in China come from Hangzhou. It was rainy and overcast every one of the three days we spent there. With it's pristinely kept foliage, immaculately clean buildings and wide welcoming walkways we couldn't help but agree despite the gloomy weather. There was a mist that blanketed the popular West Lake that added to the towns beautiful mystery. Hangzhou seemed much more entertaining to me. One day, after a chilly row boat tour around the lake, there was an incident at the Starbucks. Three elderly Chinese women brought some baskets with them to the edge of the lake next to the building cluster we were in. Out of the basket o' mystery one of the women pulled a fish and set it on the ground about a foot from the water's edge. The fish flopped around and succeeded in landing in the water but to it's apparent disappointment and horror was dragged out again while the three women bowed up and down clasping their hands in what seemed like prayer. It wasn't till after the fish stopped moving that they decided to release it back into the pond. The three women proceeded to pull fish after nearly dead fish out of their baskets and put them into the water where they either swam away or floated listlessly to the surface. As you can imagine, if 4 foreign girls walking down the street minding their own business turns heads for miles, then these 3 witches drew quite the crowd. We surmised that they had purchased the fish from a market and were making some kind of offering to the Lady of the Lake. In all it was a good trip. We napped, we went to a silk museum (that's crazy hard stuff to make) and we ate really good food (hardly any of it Chinese. Still no egg rolls).

We flew out of Shanghai airport and landed in Beijing at midnight. This led to the tearful but excited transition to the next arm of my journey. Drew (one of the three rock star members of the "Thailand or bust" punk band, How Delicious) was waiting for us at our hostel with snacks. (How Delicious is the name of the band I'm in where Brandon plays the keyboard, Drew is lead guitar and I'm lead vocals and tambourine.) The next morning Drew and I left my beloved travel partners for snowy Chengde. Andrea, Aubrey and Cathy Lee left me to fend for myself while they would no doubt gorge themselves on Comedy Central and anything but Chinese food for at least a month straight. I loathe you and yet I love you girls... may you no longer get China stuck up your nose... may you have solid bowl movements... may you drink water straight from the tap...
Suckaaaaaaaaaaaaaas! Now you have to find a real job! Ho ho, jokes on you!

Saturday, January 07, 2006

Post Script

I just found out today, after having dinner with my foreign affairs officer, Laura, that the president of Chengde Medical College's name is infact President Gao... not President Wang... man Andrea and I feel like idiots.

Oh! and I witnessed the illusive Chinese fire drill today at Cathy Lee's school. It will remain illusive to all of you, however, because no one had their camera with them.

Happy Birthday to me

Friday, December 30, 2005

A very Chinesey Christmas

Ok ok, no more crazy dinner party stories. I've got a real one here about Christmas.
As many of you know, Andrea, Cathy Lee, Aubrey, Brandon and I stayed at the Beijing Crowne Plaza Hotel for Christmas. This was, by far, the most pleasant thing we've experienced here in China, but the only reason it beats out the flight from Xi'an to Beijing is because the China Air plane didn't have a jacuzzi.

I shall start my explanation of our week of gluttony by describing the truly "Lost in Translation" moment we had when we arrived at our 5 star hotel and a swarm of cleanly pressed and polished Crowne Plaza workers greeted us at the door, insisting on carrying our bags and pushing any and all elevator buttons for us. The hotel is actually still being renovated which means that check-in is on the 8th floor. It also meant that we got a 30% refund on my credit card when we checked out. A sincere letter of apology begged for our forgiveness that they only had floors 7, 8 and 9 open including the heated pool, jacuzzi, steam room, sauna, work out room, tanning bed and massage parlor... darn... we supposed we'd just have to be satisfied eating our continental breakfast with pretty little made-to-order omelettes in the 8th floor lounge instead of the huge dining area on the first floor.

The beautiful glass elevators took us down one floor while the bellhop opened the door to room no. 719 (aka heaven). Inside I found; a king sized bed complete with down comforter and four down pillows, many light switches for me to control my mood lighting, a bathtub with powerful massage shower head, bath accoutrements including shower cap, toothbrush, razor, lotion, shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, cotton swabs, and everywhere I looked (sans bathroom of course) CARPET! Carpet, carpet, carpet, carpet! Ahhhh! I took my shoes and socks off and pranced about for a few moments in my beautiful room until I remembered that I smelled like China and immediately showered and soaked myself in a lovely, lovely bath.

We decided that some Christmas Eve shopping was in order so we simply walked out our front door to Beijing's finest Western shopping experience - WanFuJing Street. I perused the Nine West store and wandered around the many Chinese clothing stores in awe at the general hideousness of so many of their clothing items, and not in a good way. I do have to thank Brandon for being a particularly good sport as I ran from one ugly purse to another and even pretended to think that it would indeed be funny if I bought him the men's purple sweater with the word "pirate" written across the chest in big, cursive, pink sequins. and I thought women's Chinese clothes were weird...

Christmas Even dinner was then to be had at TGI Fridays. It was so perfectly TGI Fridays that you would almost think you were in America until you notice that all the workers were Asian and I don't care where you are in the States, that just doesn't happen. But really, the bar tenders were ringing their crazy "tip bell" and everyone had on their goofy hat and required 35 pieces of flair. The menu was also exactly the same, so I got some Electic Lemonaid, split the Mexi-tower appetiser (complete with jalapeno poppers, quesadillas and chicken nachos) and had a bacon cheddar burger with onion rings all to myself. We all vowed to eat everything on our plates even if it meant sitting back and waiting till you were hungry again to finish. We all know how much I like bacon and fried things so, no trouble there.

Jacuzzi plus food coma plus feather bedding equals the best nights sleep of my life.
We woke up for church on Christmas morning with bleary-eyed smiles. There was a beautiful Catholic church within walking distance of our hotel so we trekked on to wish Jesus a happy birthday. The mass was completely in Chinese, including the Christmas songs which were also translated. We were five of maybe seven foreigners in the place so I got my picture taken on my way up for communion, the procession of which was also incredibly Chinese in the way that it was a complete free-for-all to line up. No orderly line what so ever, though there was no pushing, so I guess it wasn't completely Chinese. The preist smiled and spoke to me in English when it was my turn which I thought was a nice touch.

Continental breakfast and then back in our jammies for presents! We had quite the pile even though it was only for the five of us. Brandon was ready for a fiesta with his bottle of Cuervo and Cuban cigars. Aubrey was ready to stay up for hours with her Starbucks gift certificate. Andrea got some pretty stuff I can't remember. I got some sweet paintings and a kick ass Puma bag, and Cathy Lee was regrettably given a bb-gun by yours truly, a gift I think I might soon regret.
Mud mask, bubble bath and brie in the afternoon and onto a hearty Christmas feast at the Outback Steakhouse. Two bloomen' onions, a fillet and loaded backed potato later and we decided that it could have, quite possibly been the best Christmas ever because we were appreciating every little detail of even minute luxury.

It was a holiday to remember. I missed all of you, though not too much...

Mr. Zhong is god

Now, you may be asking yourselves, "when did you give up religion and start worshiping a highly communist, Chinese deity?" "Stephanie aren't you Catholic?" "Andrea, I thought you
were Presbyterian..." (Cathy Lee's part of the story comes later)

Here now comes another story of drunkenness as supplied by the staff of Chengde Medical College.

Andrea and I were invited to dinner (about an hour before it was to take place) with the English Department. Apparently it is office Christmas party season/ aka New Years Party time. Again, we were the super duper guests of honor and were not allowed to sit with the cool, fun, young staff members, but were placed with the crusty, old, heavy baijou drinkers that don't speak English as much. This restaurant was pretty good, especially when compared to the dinner we had the night before where the president of the school insisted that we eat squares of fat because "they're good for your health". (it wasn't that bad, I just had to pretend I wasn't eating lard... it was kind of sweet...) The shots of baijou were passed around and we drank quite a bit before the meal started dying down. Don't worry, we taught everyone to chant "chug, chug, chug!" as they were downing pijou(beer). It was at this time, however, that the president of the school walked in. We had no idea he would be coming and because we had had dinner with his office staff the night before we didn't expect him at all. Regardless, he ordered us to drink more beer and then asked us if we like beef. Uh... sure, we like beef. "Yes, we have heard that Americans like beef." yeah... ok... We were then told that President Wang had ordered not one, but two more beef dishes for us, and only us, to enjoy. The night before President Wang was promising us hospitality for the Beijing Olympics, but last night we were promised big, lush apartments and a higher salary if we became permanent members of the Medical College's staff. We told him we'd think about it, but really all we thought about was that if we stayed we'd be going to a lot more dinners like the very one we were enjoying at the moment.

At this point we were reintroduced to the lovely people sitting around the table with us. Ms. Yee pointed out Mr. Wang, the VP of the English Dept, Mr. Wang, the Secretary of the English Dept, Mr. Lee, an English teacher... and of course President Wang. So the table set up was; Yee, Wang, Wang, Lee, Wang, Klaassen, Cosgrove. Riiiight... this is also about the time that Ms. Yee needs to tell President Wang my name again. He can not remember it because it is so long. So I tell him I need a Chinese name. What does Stephanie mean? According to my "Baby Name Book" it means "crowned one, noble and intelligent". He came up with Gui Hua (gway hwah) which is "noble flower". "It is the sweet smelling, princess flower", he says. Andrea kindly chimes in that I don't always smell so good, to which I sniff my armpit and grimace, thus causing uproarious laughter from all the Wangs. I also admit that my parents sometimes call me a princess... not so much out of love and adoration, but out of irritation at my ability to take 25 minute showers and need at least 1 hour to get ready for anything. Ho ho ho... and President Wang had to leave.

Enter stage left: Mr. Zhong, everyone's favorite and incredibly INTENSE English teacher. I was once invited to an "after school lecture" given by Mr. Zhong where I sat as the horrified honored guest, while he bullied the students into believing that if they didn't ALL know English that China, as a country, will never succeed. He's intensely communist.

So there we were; drunkity drunk drunk drunk and only mildly prepared for what Mr. Zhong might throw out there. All I remember is that at one point I made the ridiculous claim that, "communism and capitalism are really the same because they both have the same goals at heart! In fact! All religions are also the same..." There was a moment of quiet contemplation before my asinine comments were met with cheers of agreement. Andrea sat silently, hiding her face in her beer hoping that after opening up the topics of politics and religion that I wouldn't go for Tibet or Taiwan next. It was after I opened up that fat can of worms that Mr. Zhong proclaimed that he is god. Everyone is god! Andrea is god! I am god too!

KTV was next on the agenda. I came out of the bathroom to find Andrea looking like hell, so she went home, but I was led by the arm into a car and driven to... somewhere. I walked into the karaoke room to find about 30 Chinese people that I've never met before. I pointed to a random song I knew because they asked me to chose something. I found then that it was actually my turn next... so I sang "Like a Virgin" by myself, to 30 Chinamen dancing and egging me on. A nice older gentleman asked me to dance. I complied. I was driven home. I ate reheated spiral noodles and marinara sauce with my bare hands as Cathy Lee wondered how Andrea and I got to be in such a mess by only 10 o'clock at night.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch... Cathy Lee had quite an interesting night of her own. After returning some wonderful literature written by horrible English writers at her school, Cathy Lee jumped on a bus and prayed that she would make it in time to sneak into my house before we went to dinner... unfortunately she was too late and ended up having to think of different ways to pass the time until we would come back home again. After thinking for around 30 seconds, because is was REALLY cold outside, she figured that the US embassy in Chengde (aka KFC) sounded like a good place to waste an hour or two. With "The Bridges of Madison County" in hand she went to KFC and enjoyed some extra crispy chicken and a diet coke while reading about the adventures of Francesscaand Robert Kincaid. At about 7:30 she decided to try getting back into my house again, but to no avail. Luckily (or perhaps unluckily depending on how you look at it) my upstairs neighbor found her and decided that the cold stairway was no place to wait for a friend. So Cathy Lee was taken hostage by the upstairs apartment lady. While she was there for the next three hours, she enjoyed such new foreign delicacies as milk in a bag and the nasty sour grape juice they call wine. Then, for the second time here in China, (Cathy Lee's a lucky one) she witnessed a native dropping trou. Upstairs lady felt it was time to strip down to her long underwear, you know, since they were becoming such good friends and all, she felt comfortable enough, or rather, uncomfortably hot enough to depants. Upstairs lady then asked Cathy Lee to come back the next day for breakfast at 8 pm which confused my homeless friend a little until they reached an agreement for dinner at 6 pm with the help of the woman's English speaking son. Sadly, around 10 pm Cathy Lee finally told the woman that she was going home and thanked her very much for her hospitality. She decided to try my apartment one more time before finally giving up and going back to her own apartment (aka the dungeon of doom). This is where the story comes back, full circle to me eating pasta with my hands... Good night.

Successfully surviving two consecutive nights of office dinner parties, we now look forward to the New Years party taking place tonight. Greek Helen's students have invited us to a party and we're fairly confident that the 17-year-olds won't be toasting our good health with baijou... though I wouldn't put it past them...

Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Mr. Wang


For the record, President Wang of Chengde Medical College likes to make the foreign girls drink baijou and pijou as much as possible. It is then Chinese tradition for us to toast him back. We just had our office New Years party and Andrea and I are now officially Mr. Wang's "little sisters". He wants Andrea to come back next semester and for me to "stay in China as long as possible". He also wants to go to Harbin with me. He doesn't know when we should go, but we should because it's very beautiful. What? Everyone else in his office also wanted us to drink and because Andrea is getting a cold I took the brunt of the good wishes. I busted out what little Chinese I know (like when they asked me jigga shi baijou ma? this is baijou right? and I said dui, shi baijou... yes, it's baijou... I got a round of applause. Man I love it here) I will also be Mr. Wang's honored guest for the 2008 Beijing Olympics...

Don't worry, I'll post about Christmas tomorrow or something. I just had to share this...
Tipsy off fire water and crappy Chinese beer,
Stephanie